Mould on leather: how to remove the white marks and stop them coming back

You open the wardrobe after a few wet weeks and there it is: your favourite leather jacket covered in a white, sometimes greenish dust, with that shut-up-house smell. The good news is that, in the vast majority of cases, the mould is still on the surface and the piece can be saved. The bad news is that the wrong way to remove mould from leather, with bleach, strong sun or a hairdryer, usually does more damage than the fungus itself.

This guide covers the method that restorers and leather care manufacturers recommend, explains why each step matters and ends with the part almost nobody mentions: how to store the piece so the mould does not return next winter.

Why leather goes mouldy

Leather is skin. However well it has been treated, it is still an organic material, made of collagen fibres and enriched with oils and fats during tanning. For a fungus, that is a feast. Add the dust, sweat and skin oils a piece picks up as you wear it, and the menu is complete.

What the fungus needs is the right environment, and many homes provide it in winter. When the air stays above 60 or 70% humidity for days at a time, somewhere dark with no air flow, the spores that are everywhere find ideal conditions to grow. That is exactly what happens in a closed wardrobe in a cool, damp house, especially one pushed against an outside wall, where condensation collects.

First, check: is it mould or the leather's own fat?

Before reaching for any product, take ten seconds to diagnose. Not every white mark is a fungus. Many leathers, especially well-oiled ones, develop what is known as fatty spew or bloom: fats used in tanning migrate to the surface and form a whitish, waxy film that looks like mould at first glance. It is harmless and wipes off with a dry cloth.

Rub a fingertip over the mark for a few seconds. If it melts away, it is fat: buff off the rest with a soft cloth and you are done. If it stays, or the smell gives it away, follow the steps below.

What you will need

• A soft brush (a new toothbrush is handy for corners and seams)
• Three clean cotton or microfibre cloths
• White distilled vinegar, which is colourless
• Filtered water
• A leather conditioner, for the end
• A mask and gloves, if the mouldy area is large

How to remove mould from smooth leather, step by step

1. Take the piece outside. Brush it in the garden, on a balcony or by an open window. When you disturb mould, spores spread through the air and can settle on other clothes.
2. Brush it dry. With the soft brush, remove as much as you can, always in the same direction. Use a dry cloth on larger areas and wash the cloths straight afterwards.
3. Mix the solution. Equal parts water and white vinegar in a bowl. Vinegar is mildly acidic and helps kill spores without the harshness of bleach.
4. Patch test. Inside the collar, the inner hem or the bottom of a bag. Let it dry: if the colour has not changed, carry on.
5. Wipe with a damp cloth, never a wet one. Dip the cloth, wring it out thoroughly and wipe the affected areas gently. The leather should be damp, never soaked. Pay attention to the seams, where mould hides.
6. Clean the lining. The lining is often as contaminated as the leather. Turn the piece inside out and wipe it with the same solution.
7. Dry it in the shade. Hang the piece on a broad hanger somewhere airy, out of direct sunlight, for 24 to 48 hours. Slow drying stops the leather going stiff.
8. Condition it. Once the piece is completely dry, apply a thin layer of leather conditioner. Water and vinegar strip some of the natural oils, and replacing them keeps the leather supple.

If mould reappears once it is dry, repeat from step 5. Older stains sometimes need two rounds.

What if it is suede or nubuck?

Suede and nubuck have an open, velvety surface that soaks everything up, so liquid comes last, and with great care. Start by brushing dry with a suede brush to loosen the spores. For marks that resist, use a suede eraser with short strokes.

Only if marks remain, dab them lightly with a barely damp cloth and the same water and vinegar mix, without rubbing. Leave it to dry in the shade, then brush again to lift the nap. Do not use a cream for smooth leather, which darkens and flattens suede. Once everything is dry, finish with a suede protector spray.

Does faux leather go mouldy too?

It does, but for a different reason. The plastic itself does not feed the fungus; the dirt, grease and sweat on top of it do. Cleaning is simpler: a damp cloth with a drop of mild washing-up liquid, then the water and vinegar cloth, then drying in the shade.

The bigger worry is that the same damp that brought the mould also speeds up the breakdown of polyurethane, the material most faux leathers are made of. If you are not sure what your piece is, find out how to tell if leather is real before choosing a treatment.

There is a dark stain left. Now what?

Some fungi produce pigments that dye the fibres. If mould has sat on a piece for a long time, a dark mark can remain even after cleaning. On pigmented leathers, which have a layer of colour on top, a touch-up with leather dye usually hides it well. On aniline leathers, which are more natural, the stain has usually gone into the fibre.

In those cases, and whenever the piece is designer or sentimental, see a leather restorer before trying anything more aggressive at home. If you are unsure, send us a photo and tell us the material.

How to store leather so the mould stays away

Removing the mould is half the job. The other half is changing the conditions that caused it. Use this list as a checklist (it is saved on this device):

• Only put the piece away clean and completely dry.
• Swap the plastic bag for a cotton or breathable fabric cover.
• Use broad wooden or padded hangers that keep the shape of the shoulders.
• Stuff bags and boots with plain, ink-free paper (tissue or brown paper, never newspaper).
• Leave space between clothes: a packed wardrobe cannot breathe.
• Move the wardrobe a few centimetres away from the wall, especially an outside wall.
• In damp months, run a dehumidifier in the room or keep a moisture absorber in the wardrobe, away from the leather.
• Open the wardrobe and air the pieces in the shade every couple of weeks.
• Wear the piece. Leather forgotten in the dark is the first to go mouldy.